Picpoul is, I think, an underappreciated wine. Its classic pairing is with shellfish, but I am also quite found of enjoying it on its own. I haven’t had this particular one before, but when I saw it on the shelf as I was browsing my local M&S (yes, how dreadfully middle-class of me) it suddenly sounded like exactly what I wanted to drink. I hoped.
In the glass
Medium lemon, although I suppose you could call it deep lemon and I wouldn’t be too bothered. Clear. It’s a pretty colour, but looking at it made me realise that, in general, I find white wine less interesting to look at than reds. In other words, enough said.
The nose
Lemon grass? Lime? Perhaps. But definitely lemon zest. This is more aromas from a single glass than I’ve smelled in a wine. Either it has a very prominent nose, or perhaps my second Covid jab is counter-acting some of the worse effects of Long Covid. I’m a bit excited. But only a bit. It would be unseemly otherwise.
The palate
Dry, medium body. Good acidity. It has a long citrus finish, with possibly a hint of grapefruit. But I’m not finding it as easy to distinguish flavours as I thought I could on the nose. Aerating the wine a bit brings out some lime in the taste.
It has a really nice mouthfeel. I struggle a bit to go much beyond that. I’m starting to think I need to develop a fuller vocabulary, or perhaps a new one, for mouthfeel. Once you get beyond acidity and tannins if appropriate, in the usual wine-tasting language it’s just ‘light, medium, full’ sort of stuff. It is also has more body than I expected, but to be honest, I think I always expect Picpoul to be lighter than it is. I don’t know why. You’d think some part of my brain would finally catch on. Apparently not.
At any rate, the best I can come up with in describing the mouthfeel is that it ‘sort of leaves a memory of fullness, not just taste’ after you’ve had some. It goes down easy, and invites you to have some more. But it also doesn’t mind if you want to sit and just enjoy that last sip. Or glug. You could call it a phantom mouthfeel, if you want.
Rating
I’m torn at first between Yummy and Yummy-plus. I think I’m going with Yummy. I haven’t figured out why. I’m quite happy to drink this again, and it was good. Maybe there’s subconscious guilt at possible grade inflation. I mean, Yummy is still no bad thing.
Sustainability
Unknown.
Other stuff
Made by two women, apparently. And to come back to a point at the start of the review: Perhaps not exactly what I wanted to drink when I had it, but close enough. Also, it pairs well enough with M&S duck spring rolls, in case you wondered.
The technical info and such
13% ABV. Picquepoul. £9.99 from Marks and Spencer. (No link since I can’t find it on their website, but available in shops.)