Last week, upon learning that Trump had been convicted in the ‘hush money’ case, I figured that news was worth a splurge on actual Champagne, rather than any other fizz. It had been some years since I had last tried Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, so I decided to go with that. It also helped, to be honest, it was a slightly more affordable half-bottle than most of the others on the shelf, at least of those I had in my mental list as possibilities that I wanted to try.
So, I bought a half-bottle, took it home, chilled it. Drank it, took notes, and then forgot to write them up for almost a week. Finally, here we are:
In the glass
Medium gold. Darker than I was expecting. Fine bubbles that seem to dissipate rather quickly. It’s quite pretty.
The nose
I have one. The wine doesn’t.
The palate
Vibrant. Dry, acidic. Some grapefruit. Yes, that word again. Something akin to tropic fruits, but not quite. I can’t quite place the taste. I’m having real difficulty picking up distinct flavours on this one. Later, after my tasting, I go read some notes on the wine. Everyone else seems to find a world of great complexity in the palate and on the nose. I don’t.
What I do find is great mouthfeel. There’s a vibrancy and effervescence to it which is simply remarkable. Even when the wine looks flat – there are no bubbles at all in the glass, a mouthful explodes into life. This is the fizz’s saving grace. It’s almost worth trying the Heidsieck for this alone.
Rating
Pretty on visuals, Yummy-Plus on taste. Yeah, I know, it’s posh Champagne. Why isn’t it Double-plus-good? I suspect it’s that old retronasal thing, once again. I just am not picking up the complexity pretty much the rest of the world reports. And for me, even the wonderful mouthfeel doesn’t quite compensate, at least not at Champagne prices.
Sustainability
B Corp certified. Not certified organic (at least that I can find), but seem to follow organic principles. Work to enhance biodiversity.
The technical info
12% ABV, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier. £48.99 from Cambridge Wine Merchants. (For the record, I actually bought half a bottle, but that’s not in stock online.)
The other stuff
Leads to some awesome belches, FYI.