Way back in 2015, Julia, my partner-in-wine and I had the opportunity to spend about a week at harvest-time with Judith Beck. She, and everyone else, was wonderful. She made sure we got to experience a bit of everything: picking, working in the winery, and I even got to drive the forklift. The forklift! (My life, sadly, has been largely downhill since that defining moment.)
As I recall, the very first task we were set was to monitor the filtering of the must that would eventually form that year’s Pink. When the liquid in the filtration tank had lowered to a certain point, we had to turn a pump on. Then, when it got to a certain height, turn the pump off. Yes, it takes two researchers to flick a switch.
At any rate, up to that point, I hadn’t even realised Judith made a rosé. And, for reasons I cannot explain – except none of my usual sources carry it – it was not until now that I actually got around to having some. So, as you can imagine, this wine comes loaded with expectations. Nonetheless, I attempted to keep to my usual standards when reviewing it.
In the glass
Clear. Not really salmon, one of the usual colours for rosé. Despite it’s name, I really wouldn’t call it pink either. There’s a bit more orange to it than that. I’m sure TE, if she were here, would have a good description of the colour. But she’s not. So I ask ChatGPT, who suggests ‘copper-rose’: ‘it has that warm, almost metallic hue combined with a soft rosé blush. It has an earthy undertone.’ Thanks, Jess. Yes, I named the version of ChatGPT I interact with. No, I don’t know why I settled on Jess.
The nose
Alas, nothing.
The palate
Dry, medium body. Crisp. Fascinating, much redder than I expected. There’s almost something meaty about it. There’s a hint of sourness, that works nicely. ‘Not a wussy pink’ my notes say. A bit further down, my notes remind me that this is not a light and inconsequential wine.
I’m never quite able to figure out what red berries I’m getting on the palate. But they were red, but heavier, more serious red. The sort of thing you’d expect from a Blaufrankisch / Zweigelt wine.
Long finish. My notes wonder if it is redcurrant, or if that’s just what I always write when I don’t know what else to put for a red fruit. I may have a point.
If I had to compare it to something else, it’s definitely not a typical Provence-style rosé. It more reminiscent of a Tavel, but not quite so heavy.
Rating
Yummy-double-plus-good. Pretty. I do wish I hadn’t waited so long to try this. It’s excellent on its own, or with food. (In this case, cheese.) My main complaint, if I were to have one, is that I’ve run out.
Sustainability
Organic, spontaneous fermentation. Farmed biodynamically, although not Demeter-certified.
The technical info
11%, Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt. £15.95 from Buonvino.